Workshop Safety Don t Become An Emergency Room Statistic

Workshop Safety: Don’t Become An Emergency Room Statistic

Shop safety surveys reveal: The table saw is the machine involved in about 64% of all reported accidents. 57% of those responding reported having experience averaging over 18 years. What accounts for these numbers? Table saw is the most common tool used in most shops. When we first start out, most people are very careful but as time goes by we become complacent.

Reported accident causes: 1. I did something dumb, 2. I wasn’t paying attention, and 3. I was in a hurry. Machinery malfunction was almost never mentioned. If malfunction was mentioned, supporting backup information was provided for the malfunction.

Shop safety is not an isolated entity. In reality, it depends upon the interrelationship of several factors. I like to break these factors down into three categories: 1. Shop conditions, 2. Machinery/tool conditions and 3. Personal conditions.

The Shop: 1. Electric: a. Separate circuits for lights and tools/machinery b. Multiple light circuits c. General and task lighting 2. Comfort: a. Ventilation b. Heating/cooling c. Flooring

3. Cleanliness a. Slips and trips b. Stacks c. Clutter 4. Storage a. Flammables b. Closed c. Handy

Machinery/Tools: At the start of each New Yankee Workshop show and other woodworking shows, there is always a warning that goes something like: “Before using any power tool read, understand follow all the safety instructions. ” Some of these instructions seem really off the wall: Do not attempt to rip a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood with your UNISAW while standing outside in a puddle of water during a thunderstorm as dangerous electrical shock may result! Why are such statements put in the manual? Obviously, somebody at sometime was doing it, was electrocuted and the company lost a lawsuit.

1. Guards a. Don’t eliminate danger, they minimize it. b. Many improvements have been made in recent years: riving knives to replace splitters, blade guards separate from splitters, etc. c. Adjustment of most stock guards, especially on older machines, can be difficult. If you find that stock guards are more trouble than you can work with, look at aftermarket replacements.

Don’t try this at home or anywhere else!!!

2. Alignment and maintenance: a. Even with all the guards in place, if the tool isn’t properly aligned it is an accident waiting to happen. b. Surfaces need to clean, smooth and debris free. c. Cutters need to be sharp. 3. Control surfaces: a. All machines and tools have at least one, usually two or more. b. Guide the placement of the work piece.

Notice that the guy in the light colored shirt isn’t using hearing protection!

As stated earlier, the cause of most accidents is “I did something dumb. ” This wouldn’t be dumb: it’s STUPID!! For purposes of illustration only I hope.

7 safety rules to never violate

Listen to that little fella on your shoulder • When you hear that voice in the back of your head saying, "this isn't right, " listen to it and rethink the operation. Rehearse an unfamiliar cut first, without any spinning steel. If you feel uncomfortable with it, jig-up to make it safer, or find another way.

Inspect your tools Check every tool before use, even if you were the last to use it: Look for debris near the cutter head or blade and any loose or misaligned parts that could become projectiles when you turn the tool on. Keep blades sharp and clean: Forcing a work piece through a dull and dirty blade increases the risk of a hand slipping (and may cause burns and tear out on your work piece, too). Check blades for broken or loose teeth like the one marked here. Such damage can create a dangerous imbalance in the blade. The same is true for router bits, etc.

Watch where you stand Whether the fence is on the left or right of the blade, stand to the side of the blade opposite the fence--body out of line with the cut. Never put your body directly in line with the blade when making rip cuts at the table saw: If the board kicks back, it's coming straight at you. Also, never place your pushing hand in direct line with the cutting motion, regardless of the tool.

Tug the plug Unless you can see the loose plug free of the outlet or the yellow safety tab absent from the switch, assume the tool's ready to go. When not in use or during blade changes, unplug power tools or, if the tool has one, remove the safety tab from the on/off switch. This prevents both you and shop visitors (young and old) from accidentally turning on a tool. The same principle applies to pneumatic tools: When adding fasteners to a nailer, always disconnect the air hose first.

Stay mentally sharp Move finished pieces off your machine, and take a break if you get tired, bored with repetitive cuts, or hungry. Get comfortable, but not too comfortable, with your tools. When a project requires repeated cuts for identical parts -- making the same cut 20 times -- your mind can wander. Stay focused. Never walk away from a tool when it's running and always wait for the blade to come to a complete stop before reaching for cut-offs near the blade.

Get pushy This pushstick can pass right over the blade and still support the cutoff. Replace the heel when it becomes too kerfed. Use pushsticks designed with plenty of surface area in contact with the workpiece; they hold the board down while keeping your hand several inches from the blade. A pushstick doesn't have to be pretty, complicated, or expensive -- the shop-made one shown consists of just scrap 2 x 4 with an MDF heel. Keep a pushstick at each tool station and always within easy reach

The previous slide really didn’t show the heel portion of the push block. This version also has a handle for a better grip. However, I would not recommend this type of handle as it captures the fingers!

Don't get burned You've heard plenty about protecting yourself from spinning blades or bits. But what about protecting your shop -- even when you're not around? A fire can wipe out an extensive investment in tools and materials. If your shop is close to or part of your home, a blaze can even threaten you and your family. Follow these simple tips to avoid a disaster.

Limit flammables Cut back on the amount of finishes, solvents, and other flammable materials you keep on hand. This reduces a ready -- and volatile? -fuel source should a fire break out. Buy small quantities, keep them in the original containers, and use up old finishes on shop projects. Properly dispose of materials you haven't used in years.

Detect and defeat Smoke detectors protect you inside your home, but dust in a shop can set them off. Instead, install a heat detector (above door) with both rateof-rise (sounds an alarm if the temperature climbs too quickly) and fixed-temperature detectors (alerts you if a set temperature is exceeded). They cost about $50 at home centers and online. Keep a fire extinguisher near each exit so you can fight a fire and still have an escape route. An extinguisher with an ABC rating fights fires in paper and wood (A), gasoline and other combustible liquids (B), and electrical components (C).

Watch your wires Repair or replace damaged power cords on tools. When you need an extension cord, choose the proper size: a 12 - or 14 -gauge cord for benchtop and power hand tools. Avoid placing cords where they will be stepped on or pinched. If you rely on power strips or multi-taps to make one receptacle do the work of several, bite the bullet and add circuits to your shop.

Tidy up Boy Scouts use wood shavings, paper, and sticks to light a fire. Sound like a corner of your shop? Clean up the kindling and keep combustible material away from heaters, stoves, appliances with pilot lights, and bench grinders that throw sparks.

Finish off rags Oils in finishes create heat as they cure. Concentrate that heat in a crumpled-up rag or paper towel and it can spontaneously burst into flames. Always lay finish rags flat on the floor or draped over the edge of a bench to dry thoroughly before throwing them away.

Wood Toxicity Over the last few meetings the subject of various adverse reactions to wood has been mentioned. As a part of overall shop safety, I believe that at least a brief look at the cause and types of reactions should be brought up.

Basic Concepts Natural Chemical Poisons: These are chemicals produced by the tree itself to help ward off insect and other animal attacks. Usually have higher concentration in leaves, bark and sap. The trunk portion, where we get our wood, has a much lower concentration. For example: Black cherry foliage contains a precursor of cyanide yet we work with the wood with little problem. Woods which are oily, even after kiln drying, are more likely to cause a reaction.

Natural Physical Poisons: The term poison is related to damaging physical properties of the wood and your body’s reaction to them even if the wood has no chemical toxicity. A rather obvious example would be a splinter. A more common example is sawdust: Can act as an irritant to the skin. Particularly bad in respiratory tract because of the nature of the cells themselves and the moist environment. Western red cedar produces a very small dust particle which is prone to deep lung penetration. This can cause severe reactions especially in asthma prone people.

Introduced Poisons: These are not produced by the tree itself but are introduced to the wood either by nature or mankind. As wood rots, fungus and bacteria invade the rotting wood. These can produce our beloved spalted wood. Although pretty to look at, if the spores invade the human body they can be toxic. Mankind introduces toxins into the wood by using creosote and chemicals used in pressure treating to prevent rotting. Another example is the use of formaldehyde glues to bind the layers of sheet goods and flooring. In both cases, the dust generated by sawing introduces or reintroduces the chemicals into the air. In addition, off gassing of glue fumes continues long after manufacturing.

Types of Reaction Irritation: Itchy skin and sneezing are basic examples of irritation due to wood dust. Skin, respiratory tracts and mucous membranes are easily irritated because dust absorbs moisture leaving the area dry. Degree of irritation depends on time of exposure to and concentration of the dust. Although itchy skin and sneezing may seem more of a nuisance, some dust can have a more serious effect. The natural substances responsible for the pleasant smell of walnut and rosewood are potentially toxic with greater dosage exposure and concentration.

Long term exposure to wood dust can result in allergic reaction to the dust and possibly nasal cancer. Sensitization: Certain substances in wood, called sensitizers, can cause an emerging and potentially serious allergic reaction after repeated exposure, Develop over time Specific to the individual Poisoning: As mentioned earlier, poisons are either natural and occur mainly in bar, sap and leaves or are introduced during manufacturing. Woods for cabinetry and such don’t get chemical treatment as in pressure treating but there are glues in sheet stock.

Another caveat: If you harvest and process your own timber you may suffer exposure to what is in the bark, sap and leaves. This also applies to turning green wood. Be aware of your own allergies: If you are allergic to aspirin for example, avoid wood from birch and willow trees because they contain a substantial concentration of salicylic acid, the key ingredient in aspirin. How to Combat or Prevent Limit your exposure to dust by: 1. Dust collection and good ventilation. 2. Use protective equipment-dust masks, goggles, etc. and possibly a protective barrier on exposed skin.

3. After exposure, change your cloths and shower to avoid transferring contaminants to other areas of the house and exposing other family members and yourself to them. What about toxicity in the finished product? A properly sealed and finished wood poses no toxic risk. What about the finish itself? Solvent based finishes are highly toxic in their liquid state but once cured are perfectly safe. Shellac is a good choice for infant projects as the FDA approves it for use in coating medications. For projects that will come into contact with foods

Conclusion The rules and cautions in dealing with wood toxicity do not differ a lot from those given earlier under general shop safety: good dust control and personal dust and eye protection. The only addition I can see are with regard to skin protection, being aware of your personal allergies, keeping on increased reaction to a particular wood and being aware of reactions to oily woods. What I have provide is only a brief summary of the subject that I gleaned from the internet. “Wood Allergies and Toxicity” by Eric Meir provides a much more extensive sampling and reference list. A copy is in the blue notebook on the table. You can read it online at: www. Wood-database. com/woodarticles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity