ICE-TDB Textile Training course (15 -20 march 2010, Suzhou) Industrial policy for Textile and Fashion Industry
Table of contents 1. 2. 3. 4. General framework Industrial policy for sectors and clusters in the ‘ 90 s Industrial policy for competitive framework and companies’ networks in the 2000 s Industrial policy for the next future
General framework Milan - Italy tel. +39 0264119. 1 - fax. +39 026610. 3667 -70 info@sistemamodaitalia. it - www. sistemamodaitalia. com CONFINDUSTRIA MEMBER
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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA WHO WE ARE SMI – Sistema Moda Italia (Italian Textile and Fashion Federation) is one of the world’s largest organizations representing the textile and fashion industry. The Federation protects and promotes the interests of the sector and its members. Sistema Moda Italia represents the entire supply chain on a national and international level and is the official interlocutor in relations with Italian and international institutions and organizations. Sistema Moda Italia maintains relations with government agencies, public administration, and with economic, political, labor, and social organizations. As the national federation for the category, it is composed, on a voluntary basis, of both companies and associations and is well established throughout Italy. SMI is a member of Confindustria, the Confederation of the Italian industrial companies. SMI is also the most important founding member of Euratex, the European Association of Textile and Clothing Manufacturers. -5 -
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA WHO WE ARE Sistema Moda Italia closely follows the development and changes underway in the textile and fashion industry and assists the Italian companies in the sector through exclusive representation and a wide range of services and activities. The Federation therefore helps the industry solve problems regarding production, technical and legal aspects, and economic and commercial issues. Deeply committed to the development and growth of every area of the textile and fashion industry, SMI also deals with market aspects, promotional activities, and internationalization processes. -6 -
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA THE COMPANIES AND THE MARKET Sistema Moda Italia, as national federation, represents a sector, with 500, 000 employees and nearly 50, 000 companies, that is a mainstay of Italy’s economy and manufacturing industry. The overall national turnover of approximately 50 billion euros represents more than 25% of the entire European turnover and is a significant portion of the active balance of trade in Italy. SMI, with its 2, 000 member companies, offers a complete panorama of the Italian textile and fashion industry. -7 -
SMI members and the entire textile & fashion sector COMPANIES EMPLOYEES TURNOVER 3% 20% 50% -8 -
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA AREAS AND SERVICES Sistema Moda Italia, which is committed to making the textile and fashion sector one of the most important economic resources of Italian industry, is divided into these Areas and Services: Ø - Federation Business and Membership Development Ø - Industrial Policies, Economy and Enterprise Ø - Europe and International Trade Regulations Ø - Labor Relations and Training Ø - Research Center Ø - International Promotion Ø - Supply Chain Relations Ø - Legal Affairs Ø - Technology and Environment -9 -
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA ¦ FEDERATION BUSINESS AND MEMBERSHIP DEVELOPMENT SMI coordinates and manages the relationship between the Federation and other confederations to improve institutional representation of the sector. It promotes activities to develop membership and to better interpret company needs. It creates the best conditions for promoting Federation activities and services within the system. It systematically monitors company needs and supplies services designed to support company growth in an everevolving market. ¦ INDUSTRIAL POLICIES, ECONOMY AND ENTERPRISE To ensure the competitiveness of the textile and fashion industry, SMI studies and promotes sector policies in Italy and the European Community. It also promotes specific policies for the industry on local and regional levels. It analyzes and monitors laws regarding taxes, finance, and business. It also makes proposals to encourage product and process innovation. -10 -
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA ¦ EUROPE AND INTERNATIONAL TRADE REGULATIONS SMI protects the interests of the sector in the European Community and abroad by remaining in close, continuous contact with supranational government agencies, associations, and organizations. It monitors and encourages fair trade and participates in EC projects designed to develop trade policies and improve the competitiveness of the industry. ¦ LABOR RELATIONS AND EDUCATION SMI represents the sector during negotiations and stipulation of the national labor contract. It protects the interests of the sector in all issues pertaining to industrial relations and labor laws. Ø Labor and Social Security SMI provides members with up-to-the-minute information, consulting, and assistance in interpreting and applying the national labor contract and all the laws concerning labor, social security, and welfare. It also organizes seminars on separate issues that are particularly important to the sector. Ø Education SMI provides members and training centers with data and updates on sector needs and on the offer available to companies on a national level. It furnishes updated information on special financing and facilitations available to companies. -11 -
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA ¦ RESEARCH CENTER SMI closely monitors statistics and the most important macro and microeconomic variables to support the strategic vision of the Federation and its members, processing data and information to assist in the decision-making process. It supplies all official statistics to government agencies, the media, and trade fair organizations. It promotes entrepreneurship culture through publications and studies for various sectors in the textile-fashion system. ¦ INTERNATIONAL PROMOTION SMI’s goal is to support and strengthen the international reputation of its member companies abroad, through promotional activities that highlight the creativity, high quality and innovation which set apart Italy from the rest of the world. SMI develops and implements initiatives aimed specifically at our target markets in the European Community and around the world, developing and applying effective strategies and tools, including market research, exploratory missions, arranging for new buyers to visit Italy, actions to support industry promotion abroad, workshops and trade fair events. The SMI Office in Shanghai – It coordinates the SMI branch in Shanghai, whose mission is to strengthen the Italian presence in China, by promoting dialogue and partnership between upstream and downstream sectors in the Italian and Chinese textile and fashion supply chain, thus creating business opportunities for textile companies. -12 -
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA ¦ SUPPLY CHAIN RELATIONS SMI coordinates actions and events for the industry and for its areas and product groups and promotes cooperation and exchange of information and knowledge between member companies in every category represented by the Federation, with the aim to increase their synergies. ¦ LEGAL AFFAIRS SMI provides legal assistance regarding intellectual property and counterfeiting, contracts with sales agents and, in general, supports in drafting of commercial agreements. It also provides information and updates on the latest laws concerning these aspects. ¦ TECHNOLOGY AND ENVIRONMENT SMI studies the latest technological and regulatory developments to anticipate new eco-compatible industrial processes and the development of laws and procedures with a low environmental impact. It organizes special seminars and conferences studying these new developments. It also constantly monitors existing laws on the subject. -13 -
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA ORGANIZATION: SECTIONS Sistema Moda Italia has grouped its members into 8 Sections, which represent all product categories in the system: A. Spinning and preparatory processes B. Weaving C. Textile finishing D. Home linen E. Knitwear F. Lingerie, underwear and hosiery G. Clothing H. Miscellaneous textiles and components -14 -
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA ORGANIZATION: GROUPS The sections are, in turn, divided into 27 product Groups, which include businesses working in the same production sectors: A. Cotton and wool spinning B. Weaving (furnishing fabrics, apparel fabrics, knitted fabrics) C. Knitted and woven fabrics dyeing, yarns dyeing, photoengraving, printing D. Contract/Hospitality E. Knitwear for women and men F. Lingerie, underwear and beachwear, men’s and women’s hosiery G. Men’s, women’s, and children’s clothing, work outfits, shirting, ties and scarves, bridalwear and formalwear H. Buttons and components, material for medication, raw cotton, sewing threads All the events and activities of the industry, sections, and groups aim at intensifying joint efforts and the dialogue between companies on issues of broad and/or specific interest for each -15 product category.
YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS GROUP SMI’s Young Entrepreneurs Group was established as a meeting place for young entrepreneurs of the textile and fashion industry with common experiences. Through constructive discussion and with the final objective of protecting and promoting sector activities, the Group intends to encourage the training of young entrepreneurs, their participation in the association, and their insertion in the system. -16 -
YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS GROUP It also aims to promote awareness of the ethical and social purpose of free enterprise and the importance of membership in the association. Entrepreneurs between 18 and 40 years of age can have access to this group. -17 -
Italian Textile-Fashion Industry Detailing the specifications: q q Manufacturing sector >> export Complete pipeline Industrial districts SMEs - Small and medium enterprises (480. 000 empl. and 50. 000 companies: 10 empl. /comp. )
Italian T&F Industry: a complete pipeline Fibres Industry Textile Machinery Industry Spinning Weaving Textile Chemical Industry Finishing Knitting Clothing Retail Final Consumer Home-textile
Production: industrial districts
many SMEs located in many Industrial Districts spread around Italy many parallel processes made on small scales (NO: sequential processes made on large scales) Complex Adaptive System characterised by Incremental Innovation, Flexibility and Quick-Response
Within the Industrial Districts external economies of scale: social sense of belonging, contextual knowledge, specialisation and informal integration fragmentation is recomposed
Fashion in the first period of modern era Ø Ø Ø Very large diffusion in the population; big market - but geographically segmented; Answering to a need of identification, more than distinction; Absorbing an industrial “push”; Permitting large productions of standardized items; With a product life cycle frequently longer than a single season and geographically replicable (what was fashion in the USA one year could become fashion in Europe next year).
Fashion today: a “network” business technical innovation and intense competition, consumer’s need for variety and change Ø Ø Ø Very segmented diffusion; niche markets – but globally; Answering to a need of distinction and identification (i. e. status symbol); Reacting to the consumers “pull”; Asking for customisation; very short life cycle of products, even if in some mixed way.
T&F Made in Italy: SWot analysis Weaknesses Strengths Size Family business Skills Niche market Specialization Good image (Made in Italy) Few global brands Internationalization Global competition History Production orientation Clusters (economy of scope) Finance Flexibility Banking System Quick response Policy makers’ opinion
T&F Made in Italy: sw. OT analysis Opportunities Threats International Growing Market China/India Luxury Niche Energy Costs Innovation & Technology Transport Costs Supply-chain Consumer Budget Global Network Retail Strategy
Italian T&F Industry: a dynamic tradition Fast/flexible Close/interlinked Worth/meaningful
Fast Fashion: a successful model suitable for Italian T&F
Fast Fashion: the business model Traditional Model Time to market Multiplier of average value (from materials to final product) Turnover average growth (2002 -2006) Fast Fashion 18/24 months Up to 2 weeks ~ 6/8 ~ 2/2, 5 ~ +0, 6% ~ +17% Source: The European House Ambrosetti – Cietta
Italian Textile-Fashion Industry (2005 -2009)
Il Tessile-Moda: l’estero Periodo: Gennaio-Settembre 2009 IMPORT Valore (mld. €) TESSILE-MODA TESSILE ABBIGLIAMENTO-MODA 12, 066 Var. % tend. -10, 4 3, 514 -23, 0 8, 552 -4, 0 EXPORT Valore (mld. €) Var. % tend. 16, 780 -20, 0 5, 706 -26, 2 11, 074 -16, 4 Fonte: SMI su ISTAT
Il Tessile-Moda: commercio con l’estero Periodo: Gennaio-Settembre 2009 (Var. % tendenziali) INTRA-UE TESSILE EXTRA-UE Export: -25, 4% Export: -27, 3% Import: -24, 5% Import: -21, 8% Export: -11, 9% ABBIGLIAMENTO-MODA Export: -21, 6% Import: -9, 2% Import: -0, 9% Fonte: SMI su ISTAT
Il Tessile-Moda: la congiuntura nel 2009 Fatturato (Var. % tendenziali) Analisi per comparti Analisi per mercato Fonte: SMI su Indagine Campionaria Interna, 2009
Il Tessile-Moda: la congiuntura nel 2009 Produzione (Italia) Occupazione (Italia) (Var. % tendenziali) Fonte: SMI su Indagine Campionaria Interna, 2009
Il Tessile-Moda: la congiuntura nel 2009 Rilevazione 2008 (Quote %) Sentiment degli operatori evoluzione congiuntura Rilevazione 2009 (Quote %) Fonte: SMI su Indagine Campionaria Interna, 2008 -2009
Il modello giuridico dell’Unione Europea Livello Unione Europea Consiglio dei Ministri e Parlamento nazionale Livello nazionale Parlamento regionale Livello regionale azienda
Industrial policy for Textile and Clothing Industry 1. General framework 2. Industrial policy for sectors and clusters in the ‘ 90 s 3. Industrial policy for competitive framework and companies’ networks in the 2000 s Industrial policy for the next future 4.
La politica industriale negli anni 90 1. La politica industriale per settori produttivi 2. La politica industriale per i distretti
La politica industriale per settori produttivi 1992 – 1996 Il Piano Nazionale di Ricerca per il settore Tessile ed Abbigliamento (93 milioni di euro al valore attuale) Finanziamento delle attività di ricerca di vari consorzi sulla filatura, la tessitura, la tintoria, la stampa…
Il Piano Nazionale di Ricerca per il settore Tessile ed Abbigliamento n Criticità n n Aggregazioni solo temporanee, senza consolidamento di rapporti tra aziende Enfasi solo sulla parte tecnologica Pochi rapporti con le Università e i centri di ricerca
Legge sui distretti (1996) Finanziamenti per la costituzione di comitati di Distretto, con la partecipazione di aziende, sindacati e rappresentanti delle istituzioni n Fondi a disposizioni per creare strutture di servizio attive nei Distretti: centri servizi, centri per la diffusione tecnologica… n
Legge sui distretti (1996) n n Criticità n n Nascita di strutture molto burocratizzate Doppioni con il ruolo di programmazione dello sviluppo territoriale delle Pubbliche Amministrazioni locali Difficoltà ad assumere decisioni operative Difficoltà ad introdurre innovazione (enfasi sulla tradizione) e diversificazione verso settori nuovi e più promettenti
Industrial policy for Textile and Clothing Industry 1. 2. General framework Industrial policy for sectors and clusters in the ‘ 90 s 3. Industrial policy for competitive framework and companies’ networks in the 2000 s 4. Industrial policy for the next future
La politica industriale per fattori e reti di imprese negli anni 2000 1. L’assetto normativo europeo 2. La politica industriale italiana: Industria 2015
L’assetto normativo europeo: evitare il nazionalismo, potenziare la concorrenza nel Mercato Interno Niente programmi di aiuti e/o incentivi a settori specifici n Niente programmi di aiuti e/o incentivi senza un preventivo controllo della Commissione UE n
Industria 2015 Progetti di innovazione industriale per gruppi di imprese (Strumenti di incentivo a bando, con fase negoziale) nuove tecnologie per il Made in Italy (180 milioni di euro nel 2008): Ø Moda Ø Arredamento /casa Ø Meccanica/elettronica Ø Alimentare
Industria 2015: Le nuove tecnologie per la moda Vantaggi: üRisorse ingenti per progetti di ampio respiro (ogni progetto deve prevedere almeno 3/5 milioni di euro di costi) üPossibilità di negoziare e quindi di ampliare la collaborazione con il Ministero
Le nuove tecnologie per la moda: un esempio Sistemi informatici di co-progettazione
Industria 2015 Strumento automatico di incentivo credito di imposta per ricerca e sviluppo anche per campionari e collezioni che rappresentano la gran parte della ricerca delle PMI italiane del settore T&M
Industria 2015: credito di imposta per ricerca e sviluppo Vantaggi: üCapillarità üNon discrezionalità üPrevedibilità
Assetto degli strumenti per la concessione di incentivi pubblici Oggi Ø 91 strumenti di agevolazione nazionale Ø 1261 strumenti di agevolazione regionale
Assetto degli strumenti per la concessione di incentivi pubblici Dal 1 gennaio 2011 n 1 unico fondo nazionale n 1 sede stabile di concertazione tra Ministero dello Sviluppo Economico e Regioni n 2 tipologie di strumenti:
Assetto degli strumenti per la concessione di incentivi pubblici v Per PMI e finanziamenti fino a € 1 milione: strumenti automatici TEMPI: 30 giorni per accertamenti ed erogazione v Per progetti di importo maggiore: procedura negoziale (con appositi tipi di contratto) o valutativa TEMPI: 4 mesi di tempo per concessione degli incentivi
Le proposte di SMI per superare la crisi economica (In) Vestire in Italia Il Tessile-Moda come risorsa rinnovabile per il Paese
Stimoli selettivi ai consumi 1 RIGENERARE LA MODA Il recupero dell’abbigliamento usato come facilitazione per l’acquisto di capi nuovi 2 AIUTARE LA FAMIGLIA CHE CRESCE Deducibilità fiscale per le spese di abbigliamento per l’infanzia, via scontrino parlante 3 RIGENERARE L’ACCOGLIENZA Riqualificazione delle strutture turistiche vetuste o degradate NEW PUBLIC PROCUREMENT La domanda pubblica come volano di sviluppo 4 5 DEFISCALIZZARE LA TRASPARENZA Agevolare fiscalmente i prodotti che attestano il rispetto alle norme ecotossicologiche Europee Tessili e Abbigliamento Uomo/Donna Tessili e Abbigliamento Bambino Tessili per Arredo e Biancheria per la Casa Tessili Tecnici e Abbigliamento Professionale Ecotossicologicamente compatibili
Sostegni alla capacità produttiva Sul fronte finanziario 6 UNA PREVIDENZA PER LO SVILUPPO Come il TFR confluito nei Fondi Pensione di categoria possa favorire gli investimenti Sul fronte delle risorse 7 8 9 LA MODA E’ DONNA L’ENERGIA PER COMPETERE MENO RISCHI, PIU’ FLESSIBILITA’, MENO COSTI Valorizzazione e agevolazione dell’occupazione femminile Riconoscere lo status energivoro di molte PMI e contenere le accise Riduzioni dei premi INAIL e rivisitazione dei conteggi per la CIG Sul fronte dell’innovazione 10 LE COLLEZIONI COME R&S Lo studio e la realizzazione dei campionari sono meritevoli di credito (d’imposta)
Industrial policy for Textile and Clothing Industry 1. 2. 3. 4. General framework Industrial policy for sectors and clusters in the ‘ 90 s Industrial policy for competitive framework and companies’ networks in the 2000 s Industrial policy for the next future
Industrial policy for the next future 1. EU '2020 strategy' 2. SMI considerations Ø SMI points Ø SMI vision for Italian T&F future
EU '2020 strategy' in November 2009, the European Commission proposed a wide-ranging strategy (*) to lift the EU out of recession and to lead Europe towards a green, knowledge-based economy by 2020 (*)= the successor to the current Lisbon Strategy
Europe needs a common agenda the new Commission vision for where the European Union should be in 2020 new sustainable social market economy, a smarter, greener economy where prosperity will result from innovation and from using resources better, and where knowledge will be the key input
Time table · 24 November 2009: Commission launch of a consultation for citizens, companies, Associations… on the internet (http: //ec. europa. eu/eu 2020/) · 15 January 2010: Deadline for the consultation · 23 March 2010: EU's Heads of State and Government summit to approve: the whole strategy and the EUROPEAN INNOVATION ACT (5 years plan): innovation = political priority
Main challenges of the EU 2020 strategy the structural challenges identified as the basis for the EU 2020 strategy: globalisation climate change ageing population
Main topics of the EU 2020 strategy to confront these structural challenges EU Commission proposes to have a common agenda whose main topics can be summarised as follows: 1. Exit strategy from the crisis 2. Four key priorities 3. EU member states firmly in control
1. Exit strategy from the crisis the first key challenge will be to balance the "continued need for fiscal support" for economic growth in the short term with "the need to restore sustainable public finances and macroeconomic stability" in the long run. Member states will need to redirect public expenditure towards thematic objectives of EU 2020 so that the necessary investments in Europe's future can be made.
2. Four key priorities a) b) c) d) Innovation and knowledge Fighting exclusion Green growth Digital, transportation, energy infrastructure for Europe
Innovation and knowledge The "engine for sustainable growth" is knowledge and technology EU needs to move to "a value economy" In a fast-changing world, what makes the difference is innovation in both products and processes
Fighting exclusion With unemployment set to hit double-digit figures in 2010, the Commission recommends: "empowering people" in order to create new (kinds of) jobs transition between jobs and training periods will require a major effort to prevent people falling out of the system
Green growth With higher energy prices and greater competition for natural resources, European businesses need to adapt More efficient use of resources, energy, and the application of new, greener technologies will stimulate growth, create new jobs and services and help the EU meet its environmental and climate goals
Digital, transportation, energy infrastructure for Europe Developing a "smart, upgraded transport and energy infrastructures to improve competitiveness“
Besides those priorities Single Market should be better exploited liberalisation for the benefit of the consumers Trade Policy should: üpromote the principles underlying the sustainable social market economy in the global context üensure that barriers to international flows of trade and investment are reduced üpromote open and rulesbased global trade
3. EU member states firmly in control of the agenda European Council of heads of state should fix a small number of headline objectives and define the corresponding policy action to be pursued at EU and member state level in partnership For each objective, member states would set their individual targets for five years corresponding to their national situations and their starting points The Commission would monitor implementation every year, with both a thematic and country review
Summarizing STRUCTURAL CHALLENGES ü globalisation European Union SOCIAL MEGATRENDS ü climate changes Country ü ageing population Region RULES, STANDARDISATION (*), TAX POLICIES & SUBSIDIES (*) = OPEN & MARKET STANDARDS Expectations in Economic development Company = private initiative INNOVATION for profit in the long run, more than “quick money”
SMI considerations The above priorities could be broadly accepted. However…
T&F characteristics T&F is a creative and innovative industry, innovative characterised by a large number of very small to medium size companies subject to companies the effects of the globalisation of its markets globalisation while developing and marketing flexible materials and products for a myriad of materials products applications for everyday life applications
T&F environmental performance The European textile and clothing pipeline has an environmental and carbon footprint which is probably amongst the lowest in the world and its products are essential components in many environmental functions
SMI points 1. 2. 3. 4. definition of innovation support of T&F SMEs more effective demand-side measures more focused Regulation and more active promotion policies for greener textiles and clothing products
Need for clearer and correct definition of the term “creative industry” or innovation such concept also cover the “non-technological innovation” which is key to European textile and clothing industries such intangible value creation is a clear strength of the sector
A controversial point Most governmental policies remain focused on science and technological innovation: the financial support to innovative companies generally means support to technologically innovative companies. But non-technological innovation should also be strongly supported as they also generate value and employment.
in addition… non-technological innovation is generally less intensive in initial capital and therefore less risky. No always an innovative technology should necessarily underlie an innovative service or business model
INNOVATION (Oslo Manual 2005, OECD) the implementation of a new or significantly improved product (good or service), or process, a new marketing method, or a new organisational method in business practices, workplace organisation or external relations n n A product innovation is the introduction of a good or service that is new or significantly improved with respect to its characteristics or intended uses. . . A process innovation is the implementation of a new or significantly improved production or delivery method. . . A marketing innovation is the implementation of a new marketing method involving significant changes in product design or packaging, product placement, product promotion or pricing. An organisational innovation is the implementation of a new organisational method. . .
Innovation for a “demanding” final consumer Some Features of the “modern” Western Consumer How to deal with him/her? (some ideas) FInformed and prepared FCreativity FUnfaithful FFirst class distribution FImpulsive FWithout “real” needs to satisfy FHe/she wants emotions, gratifications FQuickness FOptimize quality/price ratio F Global network of partners in sourcing, manufacturing and distribution
Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs
Giving support to T&F SMEs accessibility, flexibility and simplicity of schemes for public resources to stimulate research, creativity, innovation access to credit for innovation carried out by creative SMEs should be easier, more available and affordable simplification of legislation (i. e. : adoption of simplified rules on generic fibre names and in the rules on bioactive fibres)
more effective demand-side measures a clearer link between research, innovation and public procurement public authorities should encourage more visibly the uptake of the innovative products in the day-to-day life of their administrations
more focused Regulations avoid new Regulations disconnected from the life-cycle of the technologies the return on investment is by far not always immediate with those new approaches
there is an underlying danger new policies will be only “environmentally-friendly” driven irrespective of the costs that those will represent for the EU manufacturing industry
more active promotion policies for greener textiles and clothing products consumers’ resistance in rewarding more environmentallyfriendly products/processes consumers is not adapting his/her wish for a “safer, greener consumption” with its behaviour as he/she is not prepared to pay adequately for “greener” but slightly costlier textile and clothing products. active tax policies and subsidies to stimulate more demand for greener textile products to encourage European SMEs to invest in those new technologies or processes
Vision SMI per il futuro dell’industria Tessile-Moda italiana: non una soluzione, ma alcune strategie
L’Italia deve fare politica industriale per i settori in cui siamo specializzati il tessuto economico futuro sarà ancora formato per gran parte dai settori che solo oggi prevalenti, ma con una struttura organizzativa e produttiva “aggiornata” n Promozione dello sviluppo delle piccole e medie imprese (PMI) e delle micro imprese (<10 addetti) n Innovazione di prodotto e commerciale
Il punto di partenza: le nostre caratteristiche Integrazione e coesione di filiera Economie di prossimità Velocità Flessibilità Efficienza Focus sul consumatore Vicinanza Identità e tradizione dinamica Qualità Valori estetici Valori etico-sociali Valori eco-tossicologici Trasparenza e sostenibilità Valore Sentieri di sviluppo focalizzati non sulla crescita quantitativa, ma sulla crescita di valore
La globalizzazione comporta… n n n Servire molti paesi, molto lontani geograficamente e anche culturalmente Grande interdipendenza Riduzione della prevedibilità Aumento della capacità organizzativa e gestionale Aumento dei rischi (misurabili) e dell’incertezza (non misurabile) COMPLESSITA’
Ø COMPLICATO Ø COMPLESSO
La globalizzazione richiede… n n Maggiori risorse interne e competenze evolute Maggiori capitali per affrontare maggiori investimenti Maggiori capitali per coprire maggiori rischi e maggiore incertezza Approcci multiculturali (Hermès per il mercato cinese ha creato una nuova griffe: Shang Xia) AGGREGAZIONE di PMI (equity / non equity)
PMI globali… PMI in rete INNOVAZIONE RICERCA INTERNAZIONALIZZAZIONE
La forza della rete Identità individuale e controllo familiare Dimensione economica e potere di mercato pari alla somma delle PMI
La Ricerca ieri: fornitori Ieri: pochi, grandi fornitori, molto qualificati, che facevano internamente la ricerca e la diffondevano tramite la vendita dei loro prodotti (industria chimica e meccanotessile) n Oggi: tanto fornitori di commodities, senza attività di ricerca interna, poco innovativi, con scarsa capacità di differenziazione n
La Ricerca oggi: Università e Centi di ricerca n n n la Piattaforma Tecnologica per il T&M Da commodity a prodotti speciali Nuove applicazioni tessili Mass costumisation & quick response
DALLA CHIMICA TESSILE ALLA MODA: MULTIFUNZIONALITA, SOSTENIBILITA, COMPETITIVITA’ 22 nd IFATCC INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS Italia, Stresa, 5 -7 Maggio, 2010
DALLA CHIMICA TESSILE ALLA MODA: MULTIFUNZIONALITA, SOSTENIBILITA, COMPETITIVITA’ n LA CHIMICA TESSILE SOSTENIBILE Materie prime di origine biologica e processi rispettosi dell'ambiente. Precursori e polimeri per nuove fibre, ausiliari, coloranti, tessili biologici n INNOVARE LA FILIERA TESSILE Introduzione di nuove tecnologie per accrescere il valore aggiunto. Filatura, preparazione, tintura e stampa, finissaggio, applicazioni specifiche di superficie, bio e nanotecnologie, tecniche e strumenti di misura n QUALITA’, AMBIENTE E SICUREZZA Standard e tecnologie. Come accrescere la qualità dei prodotti e dei processi e proteggere l'ambiente e la salute http: //www. stresa 2010. org
DALLA CHIMICA TESSILE ALLA MODA: MULTIFUNZIONALITA, SOSTENIBILITA, COMPETITIVITA’ n IL MONDO DEI TESSILI TECNICI Nuove opportunità offerte al settore dei tessili tradizionali e sviluppo di applicazioni innovative in settori non convenzionali n IL MACCHINARIO TESSILE Fattore trainante per realizzare processi efficienti, ecologici e di basso costo n LA MODA Elemento di primaria importanza strategica: fashion e design, lo sforzo congiunto del settore manifatturiero per la crescita del valore tecnico ed economico del tessile http: //www. stresa 2010. org
Innovazione commerciale: Se la gerarchia dei bisogni è fatta così…
…allora dobbiamo posizionare il prodotto moda tra i beni “relazionali” anche in termini di NUOVO RAPPORTO CON IL CONSUMATORE: e-commerce e on-line marketing
ASPETTATIVE DI BUSINESS NEI MERCATI MATURI È improbabile che la ripresa sia sostenuta n I consumi sono previsti in calo o stagnanti n La competizione è sempre più forte, spinta anche dall’apprezzamento dell’euro n
La ripresa può essere agganciata tramite il commercio estero n Sviluppare la strategia di apertura reciproca dei mercati n Combattere le barriere non-tariffarie n Concentrare gli sforzi in quei Paesi o aree con i mercati più grandi o promettenti per le nostre industrie
Sentieri di sviluppo SFIDE Globalizzazione Linee d’azione a livello macro Gestire complessità e rischi Razionalizzare sovra-capacità produttiva Strategie del Sistema Associativo Tessile-Moda Know–how per aggregazioni (equity/no-equity) e potenziamento networking Criticità ambientali UE/società stazionarie (invecchiamento popolazione, senza crescita) Capire trend di mercato PRIORITA’ Nuovi mercati (BRIC; STIM; Paesi Arabi) Analisi di supporto alle decisioni di medio-lungo termine Servizi evoluti ad alto valore aggiunto Definire politiche industriali ü Promozione/esplorazione mkt ü Apertura mkt (norme) Nuovi sbocchi (tessili non convenzionali, biomedicali, per diagnostica) ü Ricerca applicata e sviluppo Nuovi prodotti (tradizionali ma ü Brevetti; collaborazione con Università e Centri di ricerca con componenti innovative) ü Marchi/brand ü Creatività
Thank you! Mauro Chezzi Deputy director Sistema Moda Italia www. sistemamodaitalia. com
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