Cooking Cooperatively at “Shun” Robert C Marshall, Anthropology Department, Western Washington University, Bellingham, WA 98225 I. Who is Shun? A. 14 middle-aged, middle-income housewives, all B. Members of Seikatsu Club Consumer Co-operative, who have started C. A worker owned and managed lunch delivery restaurant (shidashi bentoya) D. Dedicated to high quality, wholesome, home cooking, and who work as E. A self-managed, egalitarian, part-time labor force. III. What are some results of cooking this way? A. No bosses B. No stars C. High mutual confidence D. Consistent characteristic taste One of twelve festive tables V. Analysis A. If culture is symbolic, so is how people cook B. Symbols pattern public action based on local, interested knowledge rather than communication encoded, disinterested meanings C. Technical knowledge, tropical associations and strategic action all fuse in symbols D. Multi-vocality of symbols allows concerted action without 1. An explicit consensual interpretation or gloss of the “meaning” of the action, or 2. Belying strategic “plausible deniability” E. Shun’s cook with 1. a high degree of energy, enthusiasm, skill and mutual confidence in a setting in which 2. acts of aggressive egoism are forestalled and 3. accusations of aggressive egoism are avoided Food for a feast IV. How does cooking this way reproduce Shun’s practice? Shun’s cramped kitchen These photographs are all from a catering job Shun won by bid, the result of their decision to extend their capacity. A. Cooks monitor each other’s cooking B. Cooks monitor each other’s egalitarianism C. Simultaneously with D. Plausible deniably that they monitor. II. How does Shun cook? A. Cooks often offer a taste while cooking, take a taste when asked, make a comment or a suggestion, act on that suggestion or ask a second cook. B. When asked, they deny this practice any importance; it has become routine. C. They make up the next day’s menu collectively after eating lunch. D. As each cook arrives in the morning, she chooses the dish she will cook. E. Every combination of cooks, from 4 to 12, 1. Cooks any of 200 dishes 2. Without written recipes 3. In batches of 50 to 300 servings 4. From menus they did not make and 5. Ingredients they did not buy. Cooking at Shun: preparing a feast VI. Conclusions A. How subtle, to demonstrate one another’s commitment to egalitarian cooking by offering one’s dishes to each other’s judgment. B. How effective, to build into Shun’s cooking practice a sort of inverted Fordism, to mutually and simultaneously monitor both 1. individual commitment to collective practice and ethos, and Dessert dumplings 2. Quality control in a highly variable labor force Setting out the feast food Acknowledgements Social Science Research Council Fulbright Program Bureau for Faculty Research, WWU Department of Anthropology, WWU 3. Tacitly C. These data were gathered in 1994, Shun’s fourth year in business. Shun continues in 2004, prospering thru more than a decade of stagnation in the wider economy.
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