Chapter 19 Wigs and Hair Additions 2016 Edition

Chapter 19 Wigs and Hair Additions 2016 Edition

• Important role in fashion Ancient Egyptians Ancient Roman women Eighteenth-century England men all wore wigs

Today: • Either a simple retail effort or a highly specialized field • Most clients buy off-the-shelf or Internet

• Rarely custom fit (not always true) • Opportunities for stylists to cut, color, and care for wigs • Toupees-custom-made and fitted *Takes years of specialized training *done in hair replacement centers

• Range from clip-on hairpieces to elaborately applied extensions • Newest technique-single strands of hair are meticulously hand-tied onto individual strands of clients hair • Requires specialized training www. sergiossalonandspa. com/images/wigs_before. . . www. highdefinitionhair. com/images/sasha_befor. .

• Each manufacturer has its own attachment method • Take the manufacturer’s class • Inventory can be a hefty investment • Clip-on extensions-demand is high www. galiwigs. co. uk/images/process/DSC_0019. jpg

• Income ranges from a small amount to thousands of dollars • Hair-loss clients and medical clients, (cancer patients) have particular needs for hair additions

Read: Did You Know? Locks of Love-for children www. creativewigs. com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/. . .

Human Hair versus Synthetic Hair • Pull a strand of hair from the wig or hairpiece and burn it with a match • Human hair will: * burn slowly * gives off a distinctive odor cancerfairygodmother. com/. . . /01/vogue-wigs. jpg

• Synthetic fiber will: * “ball up” and melt *extinguishing itself *burn out very quickly *will give off a slight odor hottscizzors. com/images/burning. jpg

Advantages of Human Hair • Realistic appearance • Greater durability • Same styling and maintenance as natural hair • Can be custom colored, permed • Tolerates heat from a blow-dryer, curling/flat irons, or hot rollers www. qdhairbeauty. com/images/lace%20 wig%209. jpg List price $ 995. 00

Disadvantages of Human Hair • May frizz or lose its curl in humid weather • After shampooing, hair needs to be reset • Color will fade • Hair will break and split if mistreated

Advantages of Synthetic Hair • Strong and durable-Kanekalon • Natural, lustrous look and feel • A great value, less expensive • Style and texture are set into the hair • Very easy for clients to maintain • Shampoo in cold water

• Cut according to the latest styles *cut, color, and texture already set • You may need to do some detailing or custom trimming • Colors are limitless • Cheaper wigs are more solid in color • High-end products mixed with many shades/highlights/lowlights for a natural effect • Colors will not fade

Disadvantages of Synthetic Hair • Cannot be exposed to extreme heat • Some can handle low heat • Coloring is not recommended • So shiny, may not look natural • If thick, will look unnatural on a fine-haired client 24. 99 • More natural-looking can be expensive

Quality and Cost • Pros and cons, you get what you pay for • Your success will be determined by the quality of the product itself cdn 2. ioffer. com/img/item/103/497/312/p 71 H. jpg

The most expensive wigs are made with human hair • European hair-top of the line • Hair from India *lengths from 12”-16” (next page) *naturally wavy • Asia *lengths from 12”-28” (next page)*naturally straight

• Human hair mixed with animal hair *angora, horse, yak, or sheep hair *Yak from animals belly and is purest of whites Great for fantasy colorsattracts the teen market, often used in theatrical or fashion settings

• Human hair mixed with synthetic hair (cheapest) • Often half and half • Advantages and disadvantages of both • Good option if best color and texture are chosen for client

Ask the manufacturer several important questions when selecting a wig for a client: • Made from human hair, animal hair, mixture, or synthetic • Is the hair colored • Human hair grading-strength, elasticity, porosity

• Cuticle-intact • Turned hair or Remi hair *cuticles of all hair move in the same direction *better condition *easier to work with *doesn’t tangle easily *time consuming-increases the cost Read Focus on

• Fallen hair *gathered from a hairbrush *cuticles move in different directions ~tangles *Remi refined hair-cuticle partially removed ~will not lock or mat *Fallen hair less expensive than Remi hair

Ask manufacturer: • Is hair tangle free? *if cuticle has been removed *cannot condition-will mat • Condition of the hair? • Will it match client’s hair? • Can it be permed or relaxed? • Will it last 4 -6 months-continual use?

Wigs • Wigs are an artificial covering for the head consisting of a network of interwoven hair • The client’s hair is completely concealed • Hair piece used to cover the top or crown of the head

Types of wigs Cap wigs-constructed with elasticized meshfiber base • Several sizes • Require special fittings • Are hand-knotted

• Front edge resembles client’s scalp • Wire support at the temples for a snug fit • Hand tied to conceal the cap edge • Side and back edges contain wire supports, elastic, and hooks for a secure fit

Capless wigs-are machine made • Human or artificial hair • Wefts-long strips of hair with a threaded edgesewn • Ready-to-wear and less expensive • Open points like fish net stockings • Extremely light and comfortable to wear

• Capless wigs are healthier-allows the scalp to breathe • Cap wig: *best for extremely thin or no hair clients FYI: Lace wigs *new *more comfortable

• New innovations=more comfortable • Lace front wigs *natural-looking hairline • Wigs are now well designed and fashionable • Bought off-the-shelf for immediate wear

Methods of Construction • Hand-tied or hand-knotted wigs made by *individual strands of hair into mesh *knotting them with a needle • Done around the front hairline and the top of the head • Has a natural, realistic look • Combed in almost any direction

jazzyhairfactory. co. uk/images/hand%20 tied%201. jpg farm 2. static. flickr. com/1167/775871787_7 a 25 fe. . .

Hand-tied synthetic wig $249. 00 Machine made-notice length difference $105. 00 Jordon - Handtied Synthetic Wig - Estetica Designs #123 https: /. . . /shop/files/master/d_2909. jpg

Semi-hand-tied wigs • Combination of synthetic hair and hand-tied human hair • Reasonably priced • Natural appearance • Good durability www. wigs. uk. net/. . . /Ella_HH_1_thm. JPG

Machine-made wigs • Least expensive • Even after shampooing the style returns Disadvantage: Restricts other styling options • Wig construction will determine the direction in which you style the hair • Machine-made wigs offer no versatility Read Focus on

Taking Wig Measurements • Use soft tape measure • Close to the head without pressure • Keep a written record of head measurements * forward a copy to the wig dealer of manufacturer • Include: hair shade, quality of hair, length of hair, and type of hair part and pattern

• Ready-to-wear *no measuring is needed Adjustable www. zarawigs. com/. . . /gloss-adjustable-tabs. jpg

Ready-to-wear still needs to be adjusted to the head *custom styled or trimmed *important to chose proper size for maximum comfort and security *most common-average size *amount of hair may affect the size *sizes-petite, average, large

Measuring the Head • Flatten hair down with a brush • Lay tape measure gently around the head • Wigs should settle on the natural hairline

Measure: Head circumference: around the head *Circumference = ____inches *most wigs can be adjusted 1 -1 ½” Front to nape: length of head *Front to nape = ____inches Ear to ear: top of one ear, over crown, to top of other ear *Ear to ear = _______ inches

Blocking the Wig • Block is a head shaped form • Canvas-covered cork or Styrofoam • Secured for fitting, cleaning, coloring, and styling www. alanwhite-anthology. com/. . . /4092 a 526 cb. jpg www. larocks. com/clown/images/wigblock. L. jpg

• Use swivel clamp • Most wigs are cut and finished on the client • Then cleaned and stored on a drying rack ***Demo: Pin with T-shaped pins at: *Temples *Above the ear *Each corner of the nape

Putting on the Wig • Instructing the client *securing her hair under the cap *flat and even ***Use hair wrap or PIN CURLS • If wig does not fit properly-too large *horizontal or vertical tuck and sew • Sewing the wig to create a customized fit is a highly specialized art

Cutting the Wig • Your goal-make the hair look more realistic • Taper the ends • The more solid, the more unnatural • Same sectioning and elevations as on a real head of hair • Cut free-form on dry hair www. figure. fm/cgm/ecommerce/figure/images/lar. . .

• Wig should be cut while on the client • Comb-out and finishing touches-done on the client’s head • Free-form cutting • Vertical sections *create lightness • Diagonal sections *create rounder beveled edges • Horizontal sections *build heavier weight

• Cutting small sections *observe how the hair falls • Done on dry hair • See how the hair will fall • Practice on inexpensive wigs • Razor, thinning shears, standard shears *tapering methods only

Styling the Wig • Work with the total person-not just the head • Check for balance and proportion • Handle gently • Human hair, set the styling tool on low heat • Do not pull • Use synthetic brushes that have smooth, rounded plastic teeth

• Be gentle • Use a block for all coloring, perming, setting, and basic cut outlining • Finishing touches-on the client’s head • Making a wig look believable is very challenging • Truly an art form

• Most convincing area *crown, part and the hairline • General rule: *follow the direction of the knotting and weave

Styling Tips for the Hairline • Styling products-for color-treated hair • Backcomb gently around the hairline • Release the client’s hair around the hairline • Wind test *gently blow dry around the client’s set at cool and low *observe how the hairline looks

• Styling: *do not make it look perfect *use your hands *do not plaster the hair down www. hair-styles-secrets-revealed. com/buy-wigs. . . www. wigsforwomenonline. com/wig 7. jpg www. beautytrends. com/images/dept_ts. jpg

Cleaning the Wig • Always follow manufacturer’s instructions • Use gentle shampoo for color-treated hair or specially developed for wigs • Avoid harsh/dandruff shampoos • Soak, gently squeeze the wig, plac on drying rack

Coloring Wigs and Extensions • Synthetic haircolors *standardized 70 colors • Color range from black to palest blonde • White Yak hair add fantasy colors • To custom-color the hair *check with the manufacturer

www. lacebeauty. co. uk/. . . /images/4524760958. jpg fabulouslacewigs. net/Color-chart. jpg

• The principles that guide the coloring of natural hair are applied to the art of coloring wigs and hair extensions • Check to see if the cuticle is intact • If absent *very porous *will react to color in an extreme manner • Always strand test

• Use semi-permanent, demipermanent, glaze, rinse, or colored mousse products • Use permanent haircolor on human hair wigs unless hair is porous, then semipermanent is better • Color checks every 5 -10 minutes • Remember: hair did not come from one head *may be unpredictable

Perming the Wigs and Hair Additions • Human hair only • Do not perm hair if it has been colored with a metallic dye • Performed off of the client’s head • Cover head form with plastic • Pin the wig securely *perm as you would a normal head of hair

Know the Different Types of Hairpieces • Hairpieces-hair additions • Sit on top of client’s head • Attached by temporary methods • Many different types: *integration pieces, toupees, fashion hairpieces

Fashion hairpieces include: *falls, half wigs, wiglets, chignons, bandeaus, cascades, ponytails, bangs, and fillers (add volume to fine hair) • Newest fashion hairpieces simply clip on *pressure-sensitive clips, claw clips, or combs

• Client’s hair prepared *ponytail or bun *French twist • blended with or serve as a base

***Temporary attachments methods include: *interlocking combs * flexible wire combs * elastic *claw clips *Velcro

***Too much hair *looks out of balance ***Ill-fitting *negative attention www. tomtop. com/images/l/200911/12594738270. jpg jay 3 arr. files. wordpress. com/2008/08/hoops_wei. . .

Integration Hairpieces • Opening through base *client’s hair pulled through • Lightweight • Natural-looking • Add length and volume www. humanhairpieces. com/images/product_images. . . • Thinning hair-not total hair loss

Toupees • Small wig used to cover the top and crown of the head • Severe hair loss • Two ways to attach: temporary-tape or clips semi-permanent www. bicolhair. com/images/Men. Toupee 2. jpg *weaving, tracks, adhesive, or sewing

• Wearers gain confidence • Authentic-looking hairpiece *pay a high price for it $437

Fashion Hairpieces • Special occasions *fashion accessory • Vary in size • Attached with hairpins, clips, combs, bobby pins, or elastic

Three attachment methods: • Wraparound ponytail-covers 10 -20% of the head • Useful for the client who can just get her own hair into a ponytail • Cascading Curls-cascade of curls is attached with combs • Hair wrap is mounted on an elastic loop, secured to client’s own hair with hairpins

Study the World of Hair Extensions • Hair additions that add length, volume, texture, or color • Can be human hair, synthetic hair, or a blend • Wefts of hair attached one-by-one usually pre-bonded or keratin-tipped • unless clip-in extensions-applied with semipermanent attachment methods

Manufacturers offer training General guidelines: • Decide-length and thickness • Map out final style • Stay 1” away from: *hairline-front, sides, nape, and part • Very thin hair-be careful base does not show through

• Curly hair-match or add another curl pattern • Thin hair-may not need as many Extension methods include: *braid-and-sew *bonding (fusion bonding) *linking *shrinking Most important approaches should be practiced in the following order: Read 1 -4 Read Focus on

Braid-and-Sew Attachment Method • Secured by sewing • Attached to an on-the-scalp braid (cornrow) *track Wefts can also be attached by creating a track, using fiber filler *filler and hair are braided together ~underhand braiding technique ~creates longer lasting braid

• The angle of the track will determine how the hair will fall • Tracks: horizontal, vertical, or diagonal, or along curved lines • Partings are determined to the style • Size of sections by the amount of hair that will be added • Plan so the ends are hidden *1 inch behind the hair line

• When sewing, use only a blunt, *custom-designed needle *either straight or curved • Blunt ends help avoid damage to the hair/client

Extensions can be sewn to the track using a variety of stitches • Lock stitch *curved needle and thread *sew weft to the track *entire length/evenly spaced http: //www. hairdobang. com/hair-extensions/braid-in-sew-in-extensions-how-totutorial

Overcast stitch *pass needle under both track and the weft *bring it back *repeat the stitch *complete with a lock stitch for security Double lock stitch *thread is wound around the needle twice

Advantages: *if done correctly-very safe technique *requires no special equipment *with practice-fairly quick

Drawbacks: *too much tension-client’s hair can be damaged *not appropriate for-extremely damaged hair and baby-fine hair, or clients that don’t keep their scalps clean

Bonding Method • wefts or single strands with an adhesive or a bonding agent *adhesive applied with an applicator gun *not the kind available in craft stores!!! • A special tool created specifically for bonding

www. bridgat. com/. . . /Prebonded_hair_extension. jpg

Bonding-wefts with adhesive: • Natural hair should be at least 4 inches long • Sits snugly on the head • Fast to apply • Lasts from 2 to 4 weeks • Can shampoo/done gently • Salon visits as often as every 2 weeks ***Sticky backing-peel, stick to hairlasts 4 -7 days

Not in Book!!!! • Bonding procedure-section off hair at the nape • Measure the weft against the parting ¼” to ½” from the hairline • Lay weft on flat surface and carefully apply adhesive along the base

• Use a consistent amount of adhesive; too much will ooze onto the head; too little will not adhere • Lightly press the weft against the clean partings • Hold 20 seconds • Use a blow-dryer on low to medium heat to help seal the bond • Proceed to the next section, working upward on the head until the desired length and volume are achieved

• Avoid working too close to the crown or the partings ***Caution: do not glue the scalp!!!! • Work 1 inch away from the hairline Mrs. Mandato prefers to cut the wefts into 2” sections and glue them in at a staggered (checkerboard) pattern, looks more natural and all of the weight of the weft is not pulling on the hair in the same place

In Book • Removed by dissolving the adhesive with oil or bond remover • Same technique can be used with loose hair or wefts cut very small (called strand bonding)

Advantages: • Affordable pricing • Complete service around average haircut appointment (20 minutes) • Shampooed gently

Disadvantages: • Some clients may have allergic reaction to bonding adhesive • Perform patch test • Not appropriate for severely damaged hair or do not have enough natural hair to hide the wefts • Cannot be exposed to oils-slide off • Should not attach wefts longer than 12” long

Fusion-Bonding Method • Bonded to the client’s own hair with a bonding material that is activated by the heat from a special tool • Expensive-time consuming *no uncomfortable and unattractive attachment sites • Light and comfortable to wear • Moves like real hair

Price $450. 00 for 18" hair extensions.

www. silkybeauty. com/Extension. html

• Easy to maintain • Lasts up to 4 months • Removal is quick and painless • Requires certification training ***Best choice for client’s with fine, limp hair

• Fusion bonding procedure involves wrapping a keratin-based strip around both the client’s hair and the extension or with a special gun-applicator • Many are pre-tipped or keratin tipped • Natural strands along a parting are selected and then isolated with a hair shield Not in book: • Extension is positioned under the natural hair and near the base

• The heating element is applied until the bonding agent is softened • The bond is rolled between the fingers, creating a bead that captures both natural and the extension strand use a fusion remover when needed (breaks down the keratin in the bonding)

Advantages: (in book) • Client’s hair will dry more quickly (less bulk than full wefts) • By using slightly different colors-create an illusion of depth or a highlighted effect • Allows for style versatility

Disadvantages: • time-consuming • pre-tipped extension are expensive Read rest of the paragraph

Linking • Hook is used to pick up small amount of hair • Link is slide on close to scalp with special tool • Then, an extension is inserted into the link • Link is pinched flat with pliers • Removed with a removal tool (pliers) • Extensions can be reused

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• Natural hair- at least 5 inches long Advantages: *styling versatility *natural hair can be maintained Disadvantages: *expensive *time consuming *metal links can rust

Tube Shrinking • Client’s hair and addition strand are inserted into a tube • Heated to shrink it • Special tools and training

Problems can arise: • Caused by stylist or client (not material) Stylist *Must follow logical placement pattern *pay attention to natural growth patterns *provide complete home care instructions

Client: *follow home care instructions carefully *keep hair neat and clean *must return to salon regularly for maintenance

Retailing Hair Addition Products • Great retail product *sell themselves • Substantial income themeanestmom. blogspot. com/2009/06/manna-at-m. . .

Guidelines: • Identify clients needs • Explain why it’s worthwhile *features and benefits *performance and cost • Choose high-quality • Believe in your recommendations • Price services accordingly to your time, materials, and expertise • Work with only the best

• Work with one or two companies that offer: *human and synthetic hair *high quality products *good customer service *first rate support *education ~training ~seminars ~videos • Stick with companies that stand by their products

Practice, Practice • exciting, challenging, and lucrative areas of cosmetology • Become skilled-practice • Help people look good and feel good about themselves • Great satisfaction in *working with people who have suffered the trauma of hair loss