Chapter 18 Buying and Cellaring Wines 2007

Objectives • After reading this chapter, you should be able to – identify the key cellar conditions to store and age wine. – list wine styles that are appropriate to cellar and those that are not. – discuss the changes that happen to the structural elements of wine during bottle aging. – identify the factors that affect the development of the wine in the bottle. – list the factors to consider when serving older wines in a restaurant setting. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Introduction • Most Americans do not purchase wine with the intention of aging it; they purchase a bottle to have with dinner that night or later in the week. • A small percentage of the population does purchase wine to age, sometimes for a period of decades. • In a restaurant setting, having access to older wine can be a special service for the guests. • Cellars do not need to be huge or very complicated as long as some basic storage criteria are met. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Why Age Wine? • The main reason to age wine is to allow it to improve in the cellar area. – As it ages, the wine undergoes a series of small changes that accumulate to have a large impact on the wine. – The wine gains complexity in aromatics, and the impression on the palate softens, creating a more enjoyable drinking experience. – Some wines can start out with little to offer and gain complexity with bottle age. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Which Wines Should Be Aged? • Those wines that will truly benefit from long-term aging are a small minority of the wine world. – The majority of wines produced are enjoyable upon release and designed for immediate consumption. – There is a fair amount of guesswork that comes into play when considering how a given wine will age. – It is impossible to know exactly how a wine will age, but generalizations can be helpful in determining an appropriate aging window. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Which Wines Should Be Aged? (continued) • If a wine is to age appropriately and gain complexity as it does so, it must start life with a balanced profile. – If the wine has too much alcohol or too much oak when it is young, it will not become better with bottle age. – Aging a wine that lacks balance will simply result in an older, unbalanced wine. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

How Long to Age the Wine? • First, it is important to remember that very few of the world’s wines need to age to be pleasurable. – Additionally, the best wines to age are mostly reds, since whites do not hold up nearly as well in the cellar. – It is better to consume a wine too early rather than too late. – A wine that is past its peak has lost much of the character that makes it enjoyable. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

How Long to Age the Wine? (continued) • Before aging any wine, it is important to focus on what is appealing about the wine. – For example, with Cabernet Sauvignon, astringency is a key component of the varietal and is especially noticeable in young wines. – If the collector enjoys this astringency, then aging is not be the best option because aging diminishes it. – If a taster enjoys the fresh, fruity nature of a young wine, then aging is not the best idea because the fruit character will diminish with bottle age. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

What Happens as Wines Age? • Color • To generalize, it would be safe to say that white wines get darker with age while red wines get lighter in color. – White wines change from a light gold color and take on more of a darker amber color. – Red wines change from dark red and take on a brick red or tawny brown color. • In red wines, this change is the result of changes in the anthocyanins or color compounds present that precipitate out over time. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

What Happens as Wines Age? (continued) • Aromatics • Red wines in particular change from having primary varietal fruit characteristics and aromas to having more of a bottle bouquet. – Bottle bouquet refers to the increasingly complex smells that develop over time as a result of the interactions of the various compounds. – A young wine has primarily fruity aromas, and over time the compounds that create this aroma diminish and the wine will have less of a “fruity” character. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

What Happens as Wines Age? (continued) • The rate at which these changes take place is dependent on many factors, including – the style of wine – the p. H level and total acidity – the tannin structure – the temperature and humidity of the cellar or storage area © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

What Happens as Wines Age? (continued) • In some cases, a change in aromatics is noticeable in just 3 to 6 months, especially with young, recently bottled wines. – In other cases, it may take several years for the development of the bottle bouquet. – Periodic tasting of wine at various stages of development is the best way to gauge the progress and decide upon the best time for consumption. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Aging and Tannins • In red wines, tannins act as a preservative. – To generalize, wines with higher levels of tannin tend to be more age worthy than those will little tannic structure. – Since red wines have much higher levels of tannins than whites, they are therefore more ageable overall. – As wines age, the perception of tannin diminishes. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Aging and Tannins (continued) • When the wine is young, the tannin molecules are short, and these molecules are perceived as being quite astringent on the palate. – As time passes, these smaller molecules link up to form longer molecules that are perceived as much less astringent on the palate. – Eventually, these tannin molecules become so large that they fall out of solution, adding to the sediment that forms in the bottle. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Acids • The p. H level of wine affects its color and its development in the cellar. – Acid also functions as a preservative, and more acidic wines (lower p. H level) are more age worthy than those with less acid. – Just as the perception of tannin diminishes with time, so does the perception of acidity. – Acid molecules also precipitate out of solution and eventually add to the bottle sediment. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Effects of Temperature on Aging • One of the most important conditions in aging wine is the temperature of the cellar. – The ideal temperature range is between 55° and 60°F, although a range of 50° to 65°F is acceptable. – Below 50°F, the rate of aging slows; wines aged at low temperatures do not develop the same as those aged in a warmer environment. – Aside from storing wine within the appropriate temperature range, it is important that the temperature remain constant. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Sediment • As wines age, they often to throw off silty sediment that accumulates on the sides or bottom of the bottle. – This sediment is a combination of the color, acid, and tannin compounds, which have bonded together. – Wines with more tannins will create more sediment. – The composition of the wine and the filtering practices by the winemaker affect the amount of sediment. – During tableside wine service, this sediment is removed during the process of decanting. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Bottle Size • A general rule is that the larger the bottle, the slower it ages. – The ratio of the volume of wine in the bottle compared to the amount of headspace or area exposed to cork is lower on larger bottles. – Many collectors focus on acquiring large format bottles because their potential longevity is much greater. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

The Effect of Vintage on Ageability • The composition of the grapes at harvest greatly impacts the style and profile of the finished wine and its ageability. – Wines with lower p. H values develop more slowly and have more potential ageability. – Cooler regions and vintages tend to produce wines with lower p. H levels, and this in turn helps to ensure that the wines will hold up better in the cellar. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

The Effect of Vintage on Ageability (continued) • Vintages directly impact the character, balance, and composition of the grapes, so certain vintages age better than others. • Wines can be cellared for – short term (0 to 1 year) – medium term (2 to 5 years) – long term (6 to 10+ years) © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Which Wines Should NOT Be Aged? • There are more wines that should not be aged than those that should. – The current trend is to produce fruit-forward wines that should be enjoyable upon release. – The vast majority of white wines are best served sooner rather than later. – Whites are appreciated for their up-front fruit character and do not develop as well with age. – If these wines were aged, the fresh fruitiness would diminish, and they could develop different profiles that not everyone would find enjoyable. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Humidity During Storage • The ideal level of humidity is relatively high, usually in the 70 to 80 percent range. – Lower humidity can lead to the drying of the corks, and this in turn cause oxygen to enter the bottle and spoil the wine. – Higher levels of humidity can cause mold to form on the bottle labels. • Although unsightly, in most cases it does not affect the integrity of the wine in the bottle. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Wine Cellars • One solution for storage is for collectors to have a custom cellar created to house their wine. – These cellars employ a temperature control unit that regulates the temperature and humidity of the cellar to keep it within the ideal range. – Custom designed cellars usually cost at least several thousand dollars. – In restaurants these cellar spaces can function as both an event room and a marketing tool. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Passive Cellars • A passive cellar lacks a temperature or humidity control system to maintain consistent levels. – The success of these cellars relies on the ambient temperature and humidity readings staying within an acceptable range. – These cellars may experience fluctuations in both temperatures and humidity, depending on the season and time of day. – These fluctuations should be slight enough to not impact the development of the wine. – One advantage is minimal initial expense. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Renting Storage Space • These spaces are set up to ensure proper storage of fine wine, including temperature and humidity control. – These services are often very affordable, depending on the volume of wine stored there. – Some restaurant operators may elect to store their wine collection in a rental space if the restaurant does not have proper storage. – Obviously, operators will have more limited access to the wines in their inventory. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Racking for the Wine • There are many different racking options available on the market that cater to the demands of budget and storage space. – The most common are metal or wood racks which allow the bottles to be laid on their side. – This ensures that the corks stay moist and continue to provide a proper seal against oxygen entering the bottle. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Racking for the Wine (continued) • Many restaurants organize the storage area to facilitate locating specific wines. – One of the most common methods is using bin numbers. – A bin number is a reference number that directs the staff to the location of a specific wine in the cellar. – These numbers are usually listed on the wine list as well, so guests who choose to do so may order according to the wine’s bin number. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Buying Futures • Buying futures means that the wine is purchased before it is actually released to the market. – Buying on futures means that the customer can secure the desired wines before the public has a chance to buy the inventory. – Sometimes, the wine is not delivered to the customer for several years, because it may be bought while it is still in barrel. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Buying Futures (continued) • Many producers will offer discounts to customers when they purchase futures; this is advantageous for the winery because they help fund winery operations. – This practice is most common in Bordeaux, France, but is also used elsewhere for highly allocated wines. – For wines that are produced in high volumes, buying on futures is not recommended because they will be readily available upon release. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Buying Wine at Auctions • Auctions offer the chance to access wines that were sold out long ago, but have been offered as a lot to be sold to the highest bidder. – But to those who are looking for value or are not prepared to stop bidding when the price gets too high, they can end up paying far too much for the wine. – These wines come from the cellars of private collectors or are re-releases from the wineries. – Wines sold from passive cellars often command lower prices than those with guaranteed provenance. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Older Wine and Restaurants • Clearly, very few restaurant operations have the space and financial ability to age wines for years. – Not every restaurant will have customers who expect offerings of older fine wines. – The demand for these products should be evaluated before making a large investment for the list. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Serving Older Wines in the Restaurant • There are several key factors to serving older wines: – Most older wines will contain sediment, and this should be addressed through proper tableside decanting. – Because wines gain in complexity with age and often have softened considerably, they are often more sensitive to the food that they complement. – Wines that have developed intense complexity may be best served with simple dishes, because intense flavors in the food may overwhelm the wine. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Summary • The desire to cellar and age wine stems from the idea that certain wines improve with bottle age. • Over time, the formation of the bottle bouquet offers a greater level of complexity and can allow the taster a more enjoyable experience. • The key requirements for cellaring wine include proper selection of wines to cellar, storage conditions that are conducive to aging, and the desire to monitor a wine’s development. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Summary (continued) • By choosing the appropriate wines to age and providing proper storage conditions, any collector can discover the rewards of older wine: – more complex and intriguing profiles – a greater understanding of how the age of wine can affect the perception of its character © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.