Chapter 18 Braiding and Braid Extensions 2016 Edition

• Origins in Africa • Different styles ~ social status • More important the person, the more elaborate Amyhairbraiding. com the braids were

• Today ~ signals self-esteem and self-image • Africa ~art form ~ handed down from generation to generation • Investment of time • African cultures ~ opportunity for women to socialize and form relationships

• Historically first highly decorative braids were seen in African tribes However: • 3000 BC-Egyptian women wore braids and plaits with shells/beads • Ancient women from India wore heavy braids • 100 AD Anasazi (American Southwest) and Native Americans favored braids

• Today ~ salons practice “natural hairstyling” • No chemicals or dyes (Henna/Metallic Salts) ~ does not alter the natural curl or coil pattern • For people of all ethnicities • Diverse approach to hair care

• With proper care ~ can last up to three months ~ 6 -8 weeks preserves the health of the hair • Investment in time and money is high • Detailed consultation ~ ensures a happy ending • Fill out client intake form ~ update every appointment

Hair Analysis Consultation: ~ condition of hair and scalp ~hair type and texture ~curl configuration ~scalp abrasions ~hair thinning or balding

Braiding and Textured Hairstyling Consultation: consists of • • • Hair and scalp analysis Texture determination Elasticity and porosity test Style determination Product recommendations • Diameter ~ coarse, medium, or fine

• Feel ~ oily, dry, hard, soft, smooth, coarse, or wiry • Wave pattern (coil configuration) ~ straight, wavy, curly, or coiled

• Coil ~ very tight curl ~ spiral in formation ~ when stretched, resembles loops • “Textured hair”= tight coil pattern Manandchic. blogspot. com

• Density ~ where hair is thin • Condition ~ damage and breakage • Length ~ physically long enough

• Style determination ~after analysis ~braid style that complements client’s lifestyle ~best for hair texture ~what interests client

• Product recommendation ~how to maintain-shampoo, conditioner, moisturizing ~daily/weekly instructions ~sulfate-free/antibacterial shampoos ~leave-in conditioners ~essential oils/shine sprays • Scalp health ~healthy and properly cared for

• Porosity and Elasticity ~determines the strength of the hair * extreme thin areas-braid thickness will be different *check for any alopecia ~handled differently (technique) *damaged hair should not be braided *thinner, finer hairlines-no tension

Page 539 Oval Face • Most braids are appropriate Elongated Face (oblong) • Width at sides Hairweb. org

Round Face • Add height ***Asymmetrical creates a slenderizing look • High on top *secured below the crown in back Hairbytowanda. com Pabeautystation. co. uk http: //www. natural-hair-care-info. com/cornrow-gallery. html

Square face • Longer braids to frame the face Inverted Triangle (Heart) Face • Bangs that sweep across forehead ***Fullness at chin

Triangular (Pear) Face • Bring braids forward at chin line ***Diamond Face ***Bang Narrow sides Fullness at chin http: //braids. nicehairstyles. net/tag/micro-braids-hairstyles-2/

Did You Know? Page 531 *Natural hairstyling includes: Pennsylvania Code -twisting -wrapping -weaving -extending -locking -braiding -application of heat (blow dryer, straightening comb/ceramic iron) *some states-Pennsylvania - “natural hair braider license” (Washington DC-locktician license) *cannot perform chemical or haircutting services

Tools for Braiding Boar-bristle brush (natural hairbrush) ~ stimulates scalp ~ removes dirt and lint Square paddle brush ~ releases tangles, knots, and snarls Cherrybrook. com ~ cushion of air (bristles collapse with resistance *prevents breakage in fragile hair

Vent brush ~ gently to remove tangles ~ wet or dry hair fbi 4 u. com • Use on human hair extensions • Check tips ~ even if one is missing/discard Cachebeauty. com

Wide-toothed comb ~ teeth width ~ medium to large • Avoid scratching the scalp Cosmeticmarket. com • Allows textured hair to move between rows of teeth Double-tooth comb ~ separates the hair ~ detangles wet hair

Locking/twist comb ~#55 barber comb ~smaller angled tooth on one side ~large width on other end ~allows textured hair to lock and coil easily in various widths)

Tail comb ~ for design parting ~ sectioning large segments ~ opening and removing braids Finishing comb ~ 8 to 10” in length ~ used while cutting extensions ~ fine/straight hair

Cutting comb ~ for small sections ~ use after hair is softened and elongated with blow-dryer (cannot do in PA unless licensed Cosmetologist) Pick with round teeth ~ lifting and separating *** one in kit

Blow-dryer with pick nozzle ~ dries, stretches, and softens Diffuser ~ dries without disturbing the curl pattern ~finishes look without dehydrating the hair Folica. com $187. 00

Five-inch scissors ~ creates shape and finished look ~ trims bangs (fringe) {cosmetologist} ~ excess extension material Sleekhair. com Long clips ~ separates into large sections

Butterfly and small clips ~ separates into various sections Hooded dryer ~ remove excess moisture before blowdrying Steamer-hydrate, moisturize, condition with water vapor Small rubber bands or string ~secure the ends

Extensions -Extension fibers-list to follow Hackle ~ board of fine upright nails ~human hair extensions ~ used to detangle and blend colors Drawing board ~ flat leather pads with close/fine teeth ~ sandwich the human hair extensions

Materials and Extensions • The fibers you use will determine ~ how successful ~ durable the extension will be • Buying new product: ~ buy in small quantities ~ test the fiber on a mannequin first

Vogishchic. info Human hair ~ gold standard ~ imported from Asia ~ little information about the process ~ is it 100% ? ~ deal with suppliers you know and trust

Kanekalon ~ manufactured, synthetic fiber of excellent quality ~variety of types, names, colors, textures ~ some are high-heat resistant ~ durable, soft, less tangling ~ holds up to shampooing and styling ***costs more/better quality ***less shine

Madeinchina. com Tradeeasy. com

Nylon or rayon synthetic ~ less expensive ~ varying qualities ~ reflects light/very shiny ~ known to cut or break the hair ~ repeated shampooing=less durable ~ will melt if high heat is applied

Yarn ~ made of cotton or nylon blend ~ very inexpensive ~ light, soft, and detangles easily ~ available in many colors ~ matte finish ~ expands when shampooed * will not slip ~ appear black in store/shows blue or green tint in natural light

Lin ~ wool fiber from Africa ~ matte finish ~ only in black and brown ~ comes in roll ~ any length and size ~ very flammable

Yak ~ strong fiber ~ domestic ox –hair is shaved ~ use alone or blend with human hair ~ mixed helps to remove manufactured shine

Prepare the Hair for Braiding: Working With Wet or Dry Hair ~ best dry/wet shrinks ~ tension leads to breakage/hair loss ~ wet-allow for shrinkage ~ straight, resistant hair *coat with wax or pomade • After shampoo-towel dry without rubbing or tension

• apply leave-in conditioner • use wide-toothed comb/detangling comb • blow-dry the hair • wax, pomades, gels, or lotions can be used • use large paddle brush • beginning at ends to remove tangles

~ textured hair is * very fragile/wet and dry ~ blow-drying *dries the hair quickly * softens * more manageable ~ loosens and elongates wave pattern * easier “pick-up” * manipulation of the hair

Braid the Hair • Classified ~ visible or invisible Visible braid ~ three-strand braid ~ underhand technique cute 2 try. hairdos. blogspot. com ~ left and right sides woven under center strand ~used for cornrows

Invisible braid ~ three-strand braid ~ overlapping ~ overhand technique ~left and right strands go over the middle one

Rope Braid • Two strands ~ twisted around each other ~ on one-length or long, layered hair ~ add to both sides before twisting ***done on dry hair

Fishtail Braid • Simple two-strand braid ~ hair picked up from sides ~ added to the strands as they are crossed over each other *** done on dry hair ~ non-layered hair, at least shoulder length

Invisible Braid • On or off the scalp • With or without extensions • Straight layered hair-use wax or pomade

Single Braids Terms: single, box, individual ~ all refer to free-hanging braids ~ with or without tension ~ either underhand or overhand stitch ~ all hair textures

Math. buffalo. edu Subsections ~ square ~ triangular ~ rectangular ~ parting determine where braid is * how it moves ~ moves in any direction

Single Braids with Extensions ~ for single braids * integrated into the natural hair ~ select synthetic hair, yarn, or human hair ~ vital in the finished style ~ must be consistent and close together

• During consultation ~ open package ~ verify that color is correct ~ cut to desired length ~ place on drawing board ~ place a heavy object on top ~ allows easy extract ~ can be separated and dispensed free-hand ***next paragraph is “how to”

Cornrows • Or canerows ~ narrow rows of visible braid *lie close to the scalp ~ on-the-scalp technique ~ consistent even partings www. freshafroeuropeansalon. co. uk/page 8. htm

~ mannequin to practice * speed *accuracy www. naani. com/cornrows-photos-gallery * finger and wrist dexterity ~ worn by men, women, and children Combination cornrow with single braids in back

~ various lengths and textures ~ elaborate designs ~ skill and creative expression ~ can last several weeks without extensions ~ two months with extensions ~should be removed, shampooed, and conditioned

• Cornrows with extensions should receive touch ups on individual rows to stay neat and tight • Should be completely removed in 8 weeks to prevent knotting, locking, or thinning

Cornrows with Extensions ~ feed-in method ~ built up strand by strand with extension hair fibers ~ excess extension material * too much weight on fragile hairline * leaves an unrealistic finished look ~ correct tension avoids artificial look *prevents breakage

• Traditional ~ flat, natural, and contoured ~ partings define the finished style ~ creates a tapered or narrow base at the hairline

~ extension hair * fills in the base ~ takes longer ~ lasts longer ~ looks more natural

• When picking up hair ~ directly underneath ~ never comes from another panel ~ or extended up into the braid from a lower part

• Overextending or misplacing the beginning of the extension ~ leaves hair exposed and unsupported ~ leads to breakage and hair loss especially at hairline

Tree Braids • Newer way to add hair for longer looks • Client’s hair is braided along with extension • Finished look shows mostly faux hair

http: //stylesbyjamille. webs. com/apps/photo? photoid=65745800 http: //images. google. com/imgres? q=tree+braids+styles&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=619&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=Dkap 13 ZK 90 cnn. M: &imgrefurl=http: //www. nonyehairbraiding. com/nonye/specialty. php%3 Fmghash%3 D 6 d. . %26 mggal%3 D 8&docid=EKG RDar. DDz. Ul. WM&imgurl=http: //www. nonyehairbraiding. com/nonye/studio/images/8/pic_10. jpg&w=448&h=299&ei=idm. BT 6 ii. HY_iggfp 9 bzs. Bw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=706&vpy=222&dur=22&hovh=183&hovw=275&tx=105&ty=100&sig=1171548 82344098738236&page=4&tbnh=135&tbnw=192&start=63&ndsp=22&ved=1 t: 429, r: 10, s: 63, i: 234

• Takes about 4 hours • Techniques are still evolving • Many ways to do them. • You can read on if interested in these braids.

Senegalese twists *Synthetic hair

Classify Textured Sets and Styles: • Elongates natural frizzy hair • Produces smooth, silky, curls, wavy, and zigzag patterns • Set on wet or dry hair

Bantu knot or Nubian knots*double strand twisted around itself *secured with bobby pins or elastic bands Bantu knot-out style*knots are opened for wavy, fuller loose curls

Braid-out set: *braiding hair wet or dry *open the braid *create crimped texture-on-texture effect with volume Flat-twist: *parted in several rows *divide section into two *twisted and interwoven to lie flat on scalp *varying patterns *with or without tension

Glamour waves: *flat-twist set first *hair completely dry *untwist and open for wavy texture Spiral rod set: *use rods, flex-rods, curl reformers *wrap vertical on rod and in a spiral movement *dry hair completelyif not, frizz

Coil Styles Coils or comb twists: • Small sections • Gelled and spiraled with comb or fingers • Create tight, cylindrical coils • Use for Nubian coils or to start locks

Coil-out • • After comb coiled Dried completely Uncoil or neatly unravel Creates a coily textured Afro-popular in 1960’s and 70’s *wore hair natural *in a round fashion (shape)

Twist Styles • • • Also known as double-strand twist Wet, gelled, or dry hair Two sections-overlap-creates a rope effect Can be done on all natural and artificial hair Then set on rods (ends or entire loc) Set vertically

Twist-out • Unravel the twist • Add fullness and a crimped effect • Do twist on wet, gelled hair • Any size or length • Hair is dried, twists are opened • Finger combed • Creates a textured, voluminous Afro

Locks • Or dreadlocks or locs ~ hair that is intertwined and meshed together ~ without chemicals ~ several slow phases ~ can take six months to one year

To cultivate locks ~ double twisting ~ wrapping with cord ~ coiling ~ braiding ~ or not combing or brushing

• Rastafarians of Jamaica ~ natural course will cause it to lock (Rasta is a religion of respect of all living things and self-respect) • Cultivated African locks ~ have symmetry and balance Magicdragon. org

Coil Comb Technique • Early stage ~ while the coil is still open ~ place comb at base of the scalp * with a rotating motion * spiraling the hair into a curl ~ comb moves down to the end ~ gives a tight coil ~ excellent on short hair

Palm Roll ~ gentlest ~ guides it through all the natural stages of locking ~ apply gel to dampened subsections ~ place portion of hair between palms of both hands ~ roll in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction

~ move down the coil shaft • Partings are: ~ directional ~ horizontal ~ vertical ~ brick-layered • Decorative designs • Sculpting patterns are creative options

Rastafarian. info Curly-hair-styles-magazine. com

Braids or Extensions ~ involves sectioning the hair * single braiding ~ synthetic fiber, yarn, or human hair * added to single braid to form a lock ~ after several weeks, braid will grow away from the scalp ~ palm roll used to cultivate the new growth to form a lock

Sisterlocks • Instantly locks any textured hair • Uses a special tool • To achieve a single lock

Shaping and grooming takes patience and commitment (clients) In the beginning, clients must have professional hair shaping and grooming to ensure a good outcome