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Arowana Care & Cure By William Goh Dragon Fish Industry Booth No: 928 Aquarama Arowana Care & Cure By William Goh Dragon Fish Industry Booth No: 928 Aquarama 2001 Public Seminar Date: Sunday 3 June Time: 2: 00 pm - 2: 45 pm Venue: Conference Hall J at Singapore Expo

Preparation • Prepare well in advance before you make that important purchase. Never buy Preparation • Prepare well in advance before you make that important purchase. Never buy an Asian Arowana on impulse, as the fish can be sensitive to inappropriate water conditions. Newly acquired fish may be subjected to what is commonly called 'new tank syndrome'. That is, the Arowana often lies at a secluded corner of the tank or simply, refuses to eat. In serious cases, the fish may even die within the next few days. And there goes your heavy investment! – Getting the right tank. – Biological Filtration system. – Location of the fish tank. – Water Quality, p. H level, nitrate and ammonia level, aged tap water etc.

Preparation (cont’d) • Special notes for setting up the tank – heater to maintain Preparation (cont’d) • Special notes for setting up the tank – heater to maintain 28 -30 degree Celsius. – Strong cover the fish tank. – An internal pump to create water movement. (DO > 5 ppm) – Darker surrounding gives better colour.

Bringing the dragonfish home • Proper method for equalizing temperature and p. H. – Bringing the dragonfish home • Proper method for equalizing temperature and p. H. – Float the bag of fish in the tank for 30 min to equalize temperature – Open up, mix some of the tank water into the bag for 15 min before releasing (2 steps). – observe the gill movements – if stressed, change 30% with aged water – introducing new arowana into a tank with other dragonfish (minimum of 8 -9 dragonfish) – Don’t feed the new fish for the next 1 -2 days

Daily Maintenance • Maintaining good water quality. – Water change about 2 times a Daily Maintenance • Maintaining good water quality. – Water change about 2 times a week at 30% each change (use only aged tap water). Remove the fish waste daily with a fine net. – Feeding Quantity (2 times a day at 75% full for dragonfish of 6 inches to 1 feet. For bigger fishes, feed once a day)remove uneaten food after 5 mins. – Diet (frozen market prawn and small fishes eg ikan billis/guppies) No live foods for fear of parasites. – Smelling the water. – PH 6 -7 – Adding salt (100 litres of water =100 g) – Any questions/comments so far ? ? ?

Cure and prevention As the saying goes, 'Prevention is always better than cure'. This Cure and prevention As the saying goes, 'Prevention is always better than cure'. This phrase is true in every sense of the word. Maintaining good water quality for the fishes, feed them well and conduct regular checks on p. H, temperature, ammonia, nitrite levels are what every commited hobbyist must do. Daily observation of the fish is also important. Look out for abnormal growth, erratic behavior or simply stops eating and becomes inactive. • Protective armour of the fish • Temperature (28 -30 degree Celsius) • Dissolved oxygen level (5 ppm) • Good water quality

Dragonfish’s Common Diseases • First aid = salt (100 litre = 300 grams) – Dragonfish’s Common Diseases • First aid = salt (100 litre = 300 grams) – DROPSY (temperature to 32, add salt & tetracycline) – INTERNAL bleeding (temperature to 32, add salt & tetracycline) – ABDOMINAL FLUID. (extraction & salt) – INTESTINAL PARASITES (Add 1 g of Metronidazole (white powder) for every 100 litres of water)

Dragonfish’s COMMON DISEASES (cont’d) • OVERTURNED GILL COVER • CLOUDY EYE (High p. H, Dragonfish’s COMMON DISEASES (cont’d) • OVERTURNED GILL COVER • CLOUDY EYE (High p. H, bacteria infection or injury) • WHITE SPOT DISEASE(or ich a form of parasites) • ANCHOR WORM & LICE • FINROT • DROP EYE SYNDROME • SWIM BLADDER PROBLEM • TAIL BITING SYNDROME( caused by reflection, boredom ? ? )

Conclusion • Dragonfish are very hardy fish – Ensure good water quality by conducting Conclusion • Dragonfish are very hardy fish – Ensure good water quality by conducting regular parameter tests. – Constant observation and offer immediate treatment if fish is sick. – Feed a variety of diet, preferably non-live (ie frozen and thaw).

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