2007 Fairchild Publications Inc 2007

2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics The Fiber Industry • History and Development • Organization and Operation • Merchandising and Marketing • Trends in the Fiber Industry The Textile Fabric Industry • History and Development • Organization and Operation • Merchandising and Marketing • Trends in the Textile Fabric Industry Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 3

The Fiber Industry • Fibers are the extremely fine, hair like strands almost invisible to the human eye, the smallest element of a fabric. • The market breaks down into two groups: – Natural fibers – Manufactured fibers Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 4

Natural Fibers • Cotton: Absorbs and dries quickly, is the most widely used of all natural fibers, and is good for warm weather clothing • Wool: Absorbs and dries more slowly than cotton, but the natural crimping lends itself to insulating against the cold • Silk: Its luxurious feel and breathable quality, can be worn year round Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 5

Natural Fibers • Linen: Absorbs and dries quickly like cotton, but wrinkles and is harder to iron than cotton • Ramie: A linen like fabric, is inexpensive and well suited to warm weather apparel • Hemp: Formerly used for agricultural uses (rope, canvas and lamp oil) is now being used for garments and bed linens Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 6

Manufactured Fibers • Cellulose: Fibrous substance found in the natural fibers of plants • Minimal chemical steps are employed to create cellulose-based fibers such as: – Rayon (1910) – Acetate (1924) Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 7

Manufactured Fibers • Non-Cellulose fibers: Use petroleum, coal, gas, water, and air to create the fiber • These fibers are combined by chemists into polymers such as: – Nylon (1938) – Acrylic (1950) Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 8

Microfibers • One of the most important technological breakthroughs in recent years occurred in 1989 • Du Pont produced a fiber two to three times smaller than a human hair, the thinnest and finest of all manufactured fibers • With the texture of silk or cashmere, wrinkle resistance, and machine washable qualities microfiber quickly became available in nylon, acrylic, and polyester Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 9

Microfibers Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 10

Fiber Distribution Three ways fiber producers sell their goods: 1. Unbranded: No restrictions on end use, 2. Branded or trademarked: Fiber quality 3. Trademarks: Can only be used if the nor implied performance guaranteed, end use of fiber (fabric) not manufacturer’s fabrics or end products pass tests set up by the fiber producer Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 11

Organization and Operation • Natural fibers produced domestically are cotton and wool • Cotton is sold in local markets (Southeast, Mississippi Delta, Texas panhandle and the Southwest) while wool is sold in a central market in Boston • Manufactured fibers are made all over the country and sold by the producing plant Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 12

Advertising Fibers • Important for both natural and manufactured fibers for persuading manufacturers to choose a fabric • Manufactured fiber producers campaign more heavily than natural fiber producers Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 13

Advertising Fibers She has it! Du Pont, the manufacturers of Lycra, features denim jeans that “have” Lycra. Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 14

Advertising Fibers • Advertising, in co-operation with manufacturers, benefits both primary and secondary industries • Greater customer awareness allows faster integration of new fibers into the public conscious • Retailers promote the goods that fiber producers subsidize advertising costs for Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 15

History and Development of Textile Fabric Industry • First mechanized spinning process developed in England in the 18 th century. Fibers could now be twisted into yarn at a rapid pace. • First U. S. yarn mill was built in Pawtucket, Rhode Island, 1790. • Because of higher demand, yarn mills needed faster weaving, hence the first power loom in America in 1814. • The industry grew rapidly, with demand for goods far exceeding supply. Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 16

Production of Fabrics • Begins with the creation of yarn from fiber • Fibers are first twisted or spun into the yarn • Yarns are then knitted or woven into greige goods, or unfinished fabrics Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 17

Textile Converters • Buy greige goods from mills and finish the fabric • Sell to manufacturer who uses it for the secondary market • Must be on top of trends and work quickly Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 18

Fiber Producers • Works 18 months to two years out, while the fabric makers work one year out • Color is the most important variable, but texture and fabrication play large roles • Fabric producers also supply garment hang tags and care labels Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 19

Environmental Issues Recycling • Rhovyl: French company, creates Rhovyl’Eco apparel fibers from recycled plastic water bottles • Wellman Inc. : Recycles 2. 5 billion plastic bottles annually to create their fibers • The U. S. floor covering industry responded by collecting used carpets and researching ways to recycle them • The American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI) launched an environmental protection program called E 3 (Encouraging Environmental Excellence) in 1992 Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 20

Trends in the Textile Fabric Industry • High-tech fabrics are constructed, finished, or processed to create innovative, unusual, or hard to achieve qualities not normally available • Bright futures lie ahead for these fabrics in activewear, rainwear, all weather wear, swimwear, protective clothing, heat and fire protection, and chemical protection • Even designers Alexander Mc. Queen, Helmut Lang, and Miuccia Prada use innovative fibers and closures on their runway clothing Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 21

Trends in the Textile Fabric Industry • Imports of apparel and textiles into the U. S. doubled from 1980 to 1986 • But since the WTO went into effect in 1995, U. S. imports of textiles and apparel have increased 90% • As cheap imports flood the market, domestic textiles mills have restricted their production of apparel fabrics and gone into the production of industrial and household goods Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 22

Trends in the Textile Fabric Industry • The textile industry has nearly tripled its exports over the past decade, exporting 20% of its output—roughly $16 billion a year • However, they must meet the ISO 9000 standards, international criteria designed to assess quality management • U. S. companies must be ISO certified to export to European companies Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 23

Greater Diversification of Products • A bright spot for the domestic textile market are GEOTEXTILES, manufactured permeable textiles used for reinforcing or stabilizing civil engineering projects • Kevlar and Tyvek are industrial fabrics used for diverse applications from book covers to wrapping houses to prevent moisture penetration • Teflon, the non-stick cooking surface, is an industrial protective coating now used in garments to protect delicate fabrics Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 24

Government Regulations • Creates a few large producers • Encourages higher efficiency and recycling • Will promote new processes to recover and recycle chemicals, fibers and dyes • Results in production of fibers with more ecological sensitivity • Encourages transfer printing to reduce dye house stream pollution • Increasingly protects and advises consumers Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 25

New Technology in Equipment • Quick response uses electronic data to shorten the time between placement of order and delivery of goods • Bar codes help reduce inventory costs, warehouse time, forced markdowns and stock outs • Automated data transmittal has become the industry standard • The day of the fully automated textile plant is not far away Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 26

New Technology in Equipment The production of textiles Chapter 5 Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 27